Discipline in Death

Discipline in Death
Delhi War Cemetery at Dhaula Kuan

Known Yet Unknown

Known Yet Unknown
Gravestone of Fusilier E.C.S. Dix from the Delhi War Cemetery

Sunday, July 2, 2023

DELHI'S COFFEE HOUSE CROWS




 Crows are usually considered to be lowly creatures who peck around in the dirtiest of places. In Western countries this black creature is viewed as a bad omen. But they have a friend in Krishan Katyal, about 70 years old. You can see him on the terrace outside the ‘Indian Coffee House’ on New Delhi’s Baba Kharak Singh Road, earlier known as Irwin Road carrying on a conversation with the crows who flock around him in a semi-circle. A proper meeting they hold with him every afternoon.

Krishna Katyal 

Like the crows, Katyal is dressed in a black t-shirt, black trousers and a black cap on his head with a blue-black bag slung around his shoulders. When I return to the terrace to wash my hands after lunch, Katyal is still there but the crows are gone. So, I ask him about the crows and he is soon calling them back. All he does is to reach into his bag and take out some pieces of chicken that he flings into the air. As if by magic the crows return as well as a kite that dives to dextrously catch a piece in the air. 



‘Indian Coffee House’ is no stranger to meetings of all kinds. Till about half-a-century back itfunctioned from an open park across the outer circle of Connaught Place from Regal Cinema. Office goers of all varieties, government and private would gather there under a huge tent (tambu) after work before catching busses back home. Popularly known as the ‘Tambu’ Coffee House, it gained notoriety in the years leading up to the Emergency. Many conspiracies and machinations including political ones were fine-tuned over endless cups of South Indian filter coffee and sandwiches. It was representation of Juergen Habermas’s famous ‘public sphere’ in Indian democracy that was just about stumbling along at that time. Not surprisingly, ‘Tambu’ Coffee House fell to Mrs. Indira Gandhi’s ‘baate kam, kaam zyadaa’ (less talk, more work) slogan of the Emergency. To put an end to the ‘zyadaa baaten’, ‘Tambu’ Coffee House was shifted to a far less accessible second floor of Mohan Singh Place between Rivoli Cinema and Hanuman Mandir where it became plain ‘Indian Coffee House’.







Church at Gol Dak Khana

Church at Gol Dak Khana
serenity amid change